If I had to choose one region in Norway that offers the perfect blend of scenery, solitude, and soul, it would be Telemark. It’s long been one of my favourite places to cycle, not just for the stunning routes and natural diversity, but for what it doesn’t have: crowds, overpriced cafes, and overhyped attractions. While much of Norway’s tourism is focused on the dramatic west coast, think Geirangerfjord, Trolltunga, and Lofoten in the north. Telemark quietly offers an equally rich experience, just without the selfie sticks and long queues.

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The county’s geography is incredibly diverse. In the south, you’ll find quiet coastal towns like Kragerø and Langesund, with warm summer beaches and charming wooden houses. Head inland to central Telemark, and the landscape transforms into a patchwork of rolling forest hills, shimmering lakes, and pristine gravel roads that stretch for miles. Push further north, and you’re suddenly in a high mountain environment, bleak, beautiful, and almost tundra-like, reminiscent of parts of Hardangervidda. It’s hard to believe it’s all the same county.

Northern Route: Heroes of Telemark

Northern Gravel Route: Hardangervidda Loop

One of Telemark’s biggest assets for cyclists is its network of gravel roads, many of which are in excellent condition and see very little traffic. Whether you’re bikepacking or just out for a day ride, there’s a sense of freedom here that’s hard to describe until you’ve felt it. You could go hours without seeing a car. The combination of low population density and Norway’s right-to-roam laws means you can really disappear into nature on your terms.

The weather is another draw. Compared to Norway’s mountainous regions or coastal fjords, Telemark tends to be drier and warmer, especially in summer. That makes it ideal for longer multi-day trips without constantly checking the rain radar. And when you do stop, you’re spoiled for choice with character-filled places to rest: historic hotels, lakeside cabins, bakeries that still make their own dough, and family-run cafés with generations of stories behind them.

Central Telemark Route: Telemark Canal Loop

If you want to mix in a bit of culture, Telemark won’t disappoint. The region played a major role in Norwegian history and culture, and there are countless places to visit off the bike:

• Vest-Telemark Museum in Eidsborg, near Dalen, is a fascinating open-air museum focused on folk traditions, stave churches, and rural life.
• Telemark Museum in Skien dives into the region’s more urban and maritime history—perfect for a rainy day.
• Henrik Ibsen’s childhood home, also in Skien, is a pilgrimage site for literature lovers.

But perhaps the crown jewel for cycle tourists is the Telemark Canal. This 105 km canal system, carved out by hand in the 1800s, connects Skien in the south to Dalen in the mountainous west. You can ride deep into the heart of the county on quiet forest roads, then hop on one of the historic canal boats like the M/S Henrik Ibsen or M/S Victoria to return to where you started. It’s an unforgettable blend of effort and ease, cycling one way, cruising back the other.

Full Telemark Canal and other connecting routes

Best of all, Telemark is easy to reach. From Oslo, it’s just a two-hour train journey to Notodden, Bø, or Skien. Public transport is bike-friendly, and once you arrive, you’re practically on the doorstep of adventure. Whether you’ve got a weekend, a week, or a whole month to explore, Telemark delivers a cycling experience that feels like a national treasure, one that most people haven’t discovered yet.

And maybe that’s the best part.

In the coming weeks, I’ll be publishing a full page on all the top cycling routes in the region, including tips on where to stay, where to eat, and how to navigate public transport to maximise your trip. If you’re looking for a place where Norway’s beauty comes without the hype, Telemark might just be your perfect ride.

My Oslo to Telemark route (May 2025)