Food and drink are among the biggest expenses when cycling around Norway. You burn a lot of calories cycling, and refuelling is an essential part of managing your journey. Like many northern European countries, Norway is not famous for its cuisine. Outside major cities and tourist attractions, your choices are usually limited to small supermarkets, gas stations and local fast food places. In addition, supermarket and restaurant prices are some of the highest in Europe. To many, this page is likely the most important one to study and understand when heading off to cycle Norway. You can save a lot of time, money, and inconveniences by understanding how everything works here in Norway. Let’s dive into it!
A bit of background context
Norway’s supermarkets are a hot potato of a subject and are discussed in the press regularly. Three large wealthy companies, Norgesgruppen (43.2%), Reitangruppen (23.5%), and Coop Norge SA (29.6%), control the market. It’s virtually impossible for other companies to get a strong footing. Established German, French, and British companies have all tried and failed, including Lidl, which has stores in all of Western Europe except Norway!
It is a priority for the government to protect local food companies and farms at the expense of imported goods. A good example is apples; when the Norwegian season starts in September, all imported apples are given high import taxes, thus giving the local market a competitive advantage. Many argue this is good, but if you switch apples for cheese, perhaps fewer would agree. The lack of competition and choice can result in higher average prices and poorer consumer satisfaction. There are even allegations of illegal pricing cooperation by the three powerful companies. Politicians and the media continue to debate the supermarket dilemma with strong arguments for and against the current system.
Having said all that, you will find Norway has slowly opened up over the past decade with more international choices. The question is how much are you willing to spend on imported French or Italian cheese? We recommend sticking to local cheese if you’re on a tight budget!
Kiwi Supermarket Chain - PRESSEBILDE / KIWI
Reme 1000 Supermarket Chain - PRESSEBILDE / Rema Group
Coop Prix Supermarket - PRESSEBILDE / COOP
No frills / Budget:
Premium
Mini Supermarkets (usually have extended opening hours and are open on Sundays and public holidays).
Hypermarket
Discounted Items:
It is becoming more common in supermarkets to see a 50% discounted section on products with a short shelf life. It’s usually best to check for deals in the late evening when items like bread may be on offer. Alternatively, another good time to check is on Monday morning, as the shop assistant will have checked what didn’t sell on Saturday (the shop is closed on Sunday) and will be eager to sell it quickly.
Discounts Apps and Cards
Vegetarian, Vegan, Gluten-free…
Plant-based food in Norway is on the rise, with vegan and vegetarian options on many restaurant menus. Supermarkets offer veggie and vegan alternative ‘meats’, ‘cheeses’, etc, and most have a gluten-free section. It won’t be too difficult to find gluten alternatives in many restaurants either. I don’t believe Norway is the best place for Vegans et al., but it is certainly not the worst and gets better yearly. There is even a Vegetarian festival in Oslo each year!
Grab & Go / Ready Made Meals
Many international guests are surprised with the limited food in supermarkets that can be consumed without cooking or preparing. On a bike, you might not want to spend time cooking pasta and would prefer to grab something already prepared to eat. Unfortunately, finding this sort of food in supermarkets can be difficult once you are out of the major towns. If you are a microwave chef at home, you may be scratching your head in some supermarkets wondering what you will eat tonight. In this case, gas stations may be an easier but more expensive option (we discuss this further on). A go-to for many budget-friendly cyclists is packets of noodles with only hot water required to cook, or a jar of peanut butter with sliced bread. Either way, even cyclists with the poorest cooking skills will figure something out!
Norway has an impressive amount of Supermarkets.
I remember meeting a guy on the road cycling from Oslo to Bergen. His bike looked incredibly heavy. He told me he had bought all his food for the journey in Oslo but had been surprised to pass several food shops since leaving the city. You will be amazed at how many supermarkets are in Norway. Most villages will have one, and you should not need to carry much extra food. The exception is in the far north, where you may find some remote areas require 100-150km between supermarkets. In the south, even in remote locations, every 50km-80km, you’ll come across someplace to buy food. Check Google Maps daily to see the nearest supermarkets and stock up accordingly. Forty-eight hours is usually the maximum food stockpile you’ll need to carry.
Supermarket Opening times:
The standard time for most supermarkets Monday to Saturday is 7am-11pm (sometimes 8am-10pm). On Sunday, most supermarkets are closed due to Norwegian law. Only small supermarkets or special places popular with tourists can open on Sunday. However, In recent years we have noticed more stores in rural areas opening on Sunday.
In rural areas or smaller towns, the supermarkets may only open at 9am and close from 7pm to 9pm, and on Saturday, places can close as early as 3pm (picture a tiny village in the middle of nowhere). Always use Google to check small rural shops’ opening hours so you don’t find yourself short on food in remote areas.
A new trend…
In recent years Coop Prix has been experimenting with unmanned stores. This means the stores are open 24/7 and only staffed for part of the day. When unmanned, you are required to use an app to open the door. A self-service paying machine is inside, and CCTV cameras are installed to prevent theft. I personally have not experienced this type of store but have cycled past one on the famous Sognefjellet mountain road. The catch to foreign visitors is that the app can only be operated by someone with a Norwegian bank account, making it difficult for foreigners to access during unmanned hours. I imagine a solution to this dilemma will be found in the future.
First Price is a discounted brand with low prices
A typical immigrant shop with fresh fruit and vegetables outside
Vegan products are becoming more common in supermarkets
Convenience stores
Many convenience stores are located all over the cities (especially train stations), and usually, there is at least one in the smaller towns. They have long opening times, and some are 24/7. They focus on selling bottled and canned drinks, snacks, and hot and cold food such as hotdogs and sandwiches. You will find some veggie/vegan options, but the quality is sometimes lacking. The prices are high, and you should limit using these places if you are on a budget. You will find bottled drinks are at least 25% cheaper in supermarkets. Look out for special offers that can save you money.
The four popular chain stores are:
All are similar in layout and what they sell. Deli de Luca specialises in having more food options and imported products.
Gas Stations
Gas stations play an important part in Norway. The stores that accommodate them are more than just paying stations. Many are well stocked, similar to or are convenience stores, with hot and cold food and drink options. On Sunday, they may be the only place in the area open and become a popular place to grab lunch, dinner or a snack. You will find many have some seating options with electric plug sockets to charge stuff while you eat. Every manned station will have a toilet that is usually in good or at least adequate condition.
As a cyclist, gas stations can be essential in keeping you hydrated and fuelled (staff will fill your water bottles or you can use the tap in the toilet). If you’re short on time, it’s a lot easier to quickly stop at a gas station than to cycle into the town centre to find a supermarket. Leaving your bike outside is usually safer than in a town centre. The downside is the food options are usually unhealthy, and the prices are at least 25%+ higher than at a supermarket. I once spent over 250kr (25 euros) on cold drinks in one day at several gas stations I stopped at. Expect a bottle of Coke to cost 40kr (4 euros).
Good to know:
You can pump your bike tires up at gas stations for free. However, you will need to carry an AV/FV Valve Adapter. Most stations will not have one available to borrow. You will also need to ensure you don’t overfill the tires, which can happen using a device made for car tires,
Note: Camping gas is seldom sold at gas stations in Norway. Sports shops in local towns and cities are where you will find gas for cooking.
Opening time: Big gas stations have long opening hours and some are 24 hours. However, small rural stations may not open until 7 or 8 am and close at 8 or 9 pm. More or less, all gas stations are open on Sunday, which can be a lifesaver in remote areas.
Sports shops:
If you are after Isotonic energy gels or electrolytes power to keep you performing at your best, then the local sport is your best option. You’ll find a nutritional supplement section in most sports shops nationwide. A sports shop is also a good place to pick up gas for your cooking device. Lastly, sports shops are great places to buy freeze-dried meals. I love these and always travel with a few (my favourite brand is TurMat). They are light and perfect to use after a long day on the bike. All you need to do is add hot water, reseal the bag, and wait 8 minutes. A 500/600 kcal hot meal is ready for you to enjoy. The downside is they are not cheap. Usually, one pack (one meal) cost 90-120kr. The XXL sports chain has the lowest prices.
Major Sports Shops in Norway
Local Farms
During the summer, many farms sell fresh fruits and produce by the side of the road. It’s usually an honesty system where you help yourself and pay with Vipps (a Norwegian payment app) or cash in a box. Hardanger Fjord is famous for selling fresh apples, cherries, strawberries and raspberries. If you pass by one, treat yourself!
Local Ferries
Many car ferries connecting roads between fjords and islands sell food and drink on board. It’s a good place to eat and refuel while sitting down waiting for the ferry to cross. Most of the new ferries have a self-service kiosk selling snacks and drinks. On more popular ferries, there may be a full canteen-style area selling all sorts of food. As you would expect, ferries are not the cheapest place to buy food and drink. If you’re on a budget, buy at a local supermarket and eat it onboard. If you’re after the ultimate Norwegian experience, you must try the famous ferry ‘Svele’ (a Norwegian pancake with brown cheese and jam). On the popular Moss-Horten (Oslo Fjord) ferry, they are famous for their ‘Pølse i vaffel’ (sausage in a waffle) – try it!
Bakeries
Norway prides itself on its high-quality bakeries. All towns and cities will have good bakeries selling quality freshly baked baguettes, rustic loaves, delicious pastries, sandwiches, hot and cold drinks, and perhaps pizza slices. Nearly all have seating areas and in some towns, the bakery is a tourist attraction in itself. See Lom or Flåm Bakeries as good examples.
Chain Bakeries
Coffee Shops
Norwegians love their coffee and don’t tolerate poor quality. You will find all towns and cities have good coffee shops. Places like Oslo have a big coffee scene with world-famous baristas – see Tim Wendelboe.
Chain Coffee Shops
Fast Food Restaurants:
The usual suspects are found in large towns and cities, including McDonald’s, Burger King, Domino’s Pizza and Subway. There is no KFC in Norway because it has strict laws against bleach-treated meat byproducts, growth hormones, and certain feed supplements that the KFC livestock are fed in the USA. All these banned procedures make Norway’s fast food more expensive to produce. In Norway, expect to pay at least 150kr for a burger, fries and coke.
Gatekjøkken (Street Kitchen/takeaway):
In many of the towns and villages you pass, you will find a place selling burgers, pizzas, kababs, etc. This is the local takeout where people come to eat at night and at weekends, especially after alcohol. They serve a purpose, and if you have been cycling all day and looking for cheap, filling food, they are a good option to consider. It won’t be healthy or anything to write home about, but you will carb up.
Similar to Uber Eats, these apps allow you to see what takeaway delivery options are available in the town you stop at. You can have food delivered to your hotel, campsite, etc. You must pay a delivery fee; a 10-15% tip to the driver is usually customary. I sometimes use the app to see what restaurants the local town has, then cycle to it and pick it up myself.
These are the towns that offer the service:
Cirke K Petrol Station - PRESSBILDE
Kaffebrenneriet has excellent coffee and pastries
Typical 'GateKjøkken' selling burgers, pizzas, etc
In some countries, eating at a restaurant every night or at least a few times a week is part of your holiday experience. Sadly, you’ll need deep pockets in Norway to afford to eat out several times a week. I usually treat myself after I have completed a route, or if it’s a long route spanning several weeks, I may indulge myself once every 5-7 days. At the same time, I don’t like to waste money on poor restaurants. Luckily, standards are changing, and Norway’s food scene has come a long way in the past decade.
Indeed, Oslo has rapidly changed from a bland outpost of Europe’s food scene to an exciting modern food hub offering world-class restaurants and cuisines from around the world. Maaemo restaurant is the world’s most northerly restaurant with three Michelin stars. But if that sounds too fancy, there are a number of trendy street and food halls and everything in between.
The cheapest restaurants will offer main dishes for between 150-200kr. Standard restaurants are 200-300kr, and upmarket places expect to pay 300-600kr. A house bottle of wine will cost between 400-750kr, which is the biggest shock for most people. More about alcohol prices later. You will find TripAdvisor and many other sites go into more detail about what is on offer in Norway’s capital city. My favourite restaurant is Der Peppern Gror Rådhusplassen. If you like spicy Indian food, there are few better.
In smaller cities, you will find traditional and new, upcoming restaurants that are changing the local food scene. All of Norway’s major cities are by the coast, and thus, there are plenty of good quality seafood restaurants offering local produce. The cozy Cornelius restaurant in Bergen is a must if you spend time in that area. There is also some very cool concept restaurants situated literally in the sea. Iris Restaurant, floating in the middle of Hardanger Fjord and ‘Under’, located on the south coast, is the world’s largest underwater restaurant. Expect to pay a lot to get a seat in these restaurants!
In popular tourist areas, you will find some nice restaurants focusing on local produce and ingredients. Look out for the word Gård or Gården (Farm/The Farm) in a Restaurant name. These are usually situated in old historic farmhouse buildings made of wood. They will sell authentic Norwegian cuisine, and the staff may be dressed traditionally.
Sadly, however, with the exception of major cities and tourist areas, don’t expect to find much in small local towns and villages. Rural Norway doesn’t have an eat-out culture, and your options may be a ‘Gatekjøkken’ or bakery at best and don’t expect much in the way of a local pub or bar either.
Budget guide to what to expect to pay for 1 person eating out.
Pubs, Microbreweries, Bars and Clubs
Once again, Oslo is awash with hundreds of bar concepts. If you’re looking for a vibrant night life the capital does not disappoint. VisitOslo has a good guide to all the popular drinking hubs. Pubs, bars and clubs in Oslo can serve alcohol until 3am at weekends. In most towns, it will be earlier.
Other cities have lively night scenes, but this is usually saved for Friday and Saturday. Bars can be very quiet during the week, even in Oslo (although this is changing). Tromsø, the capital of the north, is renowned for its weekend scene, with many bars crammed into the small town centre. If you make it up there, a weekend night out is worth experiencing! Outside of the cities, there really is little going on. Strict alcohol laws and high prices mean if you’re lucky, a small town will have one bar that locals visit at weekends. This environment won’t be to everyone’s liking!
Having said that, some tourist villages may have a bar worth visiting. The village of Flåm, which is the end or start point for the famous Rallarvegen cycling route, has a microbrewery called Ægir. This Viking-style brewery is a must-visit! Try their IPA beer. It’s really good!
Let’s talk about prices!
Norway has some of the highest alcohol prices in the world, thanks to high government taxes. It is also illegal to promote or put special offers on alcohol sales. There is no such thing as ‘happy hour’ in a Norwegian bar. A standard beer in a bar will cost you 90-120kr. A glass of wine or a gin and tonic will cost 130-200kr. And cocktails are usually over 200kr. Because of these high prices, many younger Norwegians will buy alcohol from the shop and drink it with friends in a park or house before going to bars later. Most bars don’t start to be full until after 10pm. By 11pm, expect long queues outside the most popular bars. You should be aware Norwegians do not usually do rounds. Everyone buys their own drinks, and girls may find it uncomfortable to accept a free drink from a guy.
The Law that’s not the Law – Drinking in public places.
Norwegian law states alcohol can not be consumed in public without a licence and is punishable by fines. However, in summer, you will notice in the city parks and other recreational areas that many people will be consuming alcohol bought from supermarkets. Although this is illegal, the police will turn a blind eye to it unless anti-social behaviour occurs. There is an unwritten rule to behave yourself and not cause trouble. More or less, everyone obeys this rule, and thus, sitting in the park grilling food and enjoying a few cold drinks is never an issue.
IMPORTANT – You should know this👇
Buying alcohol in the supermarket
Supermarkets are only allowed to sell alcohol with a percentage of 4.7% or under. This basically means Beer, Cider, and Alcolpops are all you will find (no wine). It’s even more strict in Sweden, with only 3.5% allowed. Sales times are limited. Monday to Friday until 8pm and until 6pm on Saturday. Sunday, alcohol is prohibited from being sold. There are no exceptions, as all supermarket checkout systems will actually reject alcoholic beverages after those times. It can be very frustrating having finished a long ride only to find you are too late to buy a deserved beer in the supermarket. Welcome to Norway! Be organised!
The price for a standard can of pilsner/lager is around 28-32kr (3 euros). More premium beers and ciders cost between 35-60kr per bottle or can. Most beer cans/bottles have a 2kr pant charge (you can be refunded if you recycle the can at a machine in any supermarket).
Government-run Liquor Stores
For alcohol 4.8% or above (Wine, liquor, and strong beers), you must purchase it at a government-run store called Vinmonopolet. Every small and large town will have one, and there will be several in the cities.
The opening hours can vary based on the town and population density, but in Oslo, expect Monday to Friday between 10:00 and 18:00 and Saturday between 10:00 and 16:00. The stores are closed on Sunday. This means if you want a bottle of wine for Saturday or Sunday evening, you will need to purchase it before 16:00 on Saturday or early in smaller communities.
Prices for a cheap bottle of wine start at around 150kr-200kr. Higher quality wine is between 200kr-500kr. And top-end stuff 700kr-2000kr. Strong beers can be between 50kr and 200kr. Don’t buy liquor at Vinmonopolet; buy it at duty-free as you arrive in the country.
Duty Free on Arrival
If you arrive by plane or boat, you will notice a big duty-free shop on arrival (airport) or on the boat that many Norwegians will stop off at. Alcohol prices are cheaper here, which many people take advantage of before customs. How much you can bring into the country can be confusing. See here for more details.
My experience with Norway’s alcohol laws during the pandemic.
Passing a traditional farm cafe and restaurant (Gård)
Under - the famous underwater restaurant near Kristiansand (Photo Restaurant Under)
Vinmonopolet - Government-run liquor store
Water!
Norway’s tap water is some of the best in the world. It really is a joy to drink, and you should not need to buy bottled water if you carry water bottles with you. Places to refill on the road:
The country is filled with fresh, clean water, and you should never be too far from a stream, river, lake, etc. Nevertheless, take care in cultivated areas where pesticides or dead animals may have contaminated the water. In non-cultivated areas, fast-flowing rivers will usually be perfectly fine to drink from. I have never filtered the water and have had zero problems. But use your own judgement. If the water tastes funny, empty it and move on.
Fishing
Some people cycle with a fold-out fishing pole and try to catch dinner when possible. It is free to fish in the sea and fjords (salt water), but lakes and rivers (freshwater) require a license (buy at selected sports shops, convenience stores, and campsites). You must understand the rules as some fish are prohibited from being taken from the sea and rivers. You will find full info and rules here:
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