One Girl’s Bikepacking Journey Through Norway – Part 2

We rejoin Angela on her 11-day adventure from Oslo Fjord to the highlands of central Norway. Alone on remote roads with just her trusty bike to power her on. Part 1 of the journey can be found here.

Text and photos by Angela Bonaccorso, an Italian-born creative based in Barcelona, Spain. Special thanks to Guido Gazzaniga and Gjermund Gustavsen for contributing three photos

Day 6 – From Aurlandsvangen to Borgund | 72 km – 1,740 m elevation gain
I continue the journey with Andrea and Mijol. A long climb awaits us, apparently the most challenging of the trip. There’s no way to avoid it, as the only alternative is a tunnel that’s closed to bikes. Luckily, the road is paved, and the first part overlooks the fjord. It reminds me of the views from my beloved lakes in Lombardy: the horizon fading into mountains that drop steeply into the water.

The slope is noticeable right from the start. We pedal slowly, stopping now and then for photos. Then, little by little, we lose sight of the fjord and enter a more mountainous landscape, which reminds me of the rugged peaks of Catalunya. A friend had told me this climb would be tough, but he also said the most beautiful part would come after.

And in fact, as we get closer to the top, I start to understand why. Among these rocky peaks, lakes begin to appear. We take advantage of the sunshine and good weather for a long break and something to eat. We meet another bike traveler, chat with him for a bit — he’s heading north — and then we set off again.

An open plateau unfolds before us, with breathtaking views. A constant up and down on a paved road that winds through lakes, peaks, and glaciers. It’s incredible — Norway never stops amazing me. We refill our bottles with fresh water from a waterfall.

I almost feel sad that the descent begins 🙂 it means leaving these landscapes behind.

We reach the first village. I’m now halfway through the trip and need to pick up the pace if I want to make it to Oslo in time for my return flight. So, while Andrea and Mijol stop at a campsite, I decide to keep going.

It’s strange — before meeting them I felt lonely, and after two days together, I feel the need for solitude again: to go at my own pace, stop when I want, remain in silence, listen to my sensations. Yet as soon as we say goodbye, I feel a little emptiness again. As if happiness couldn’t be — or could be — present in both options. So I try to recall the reasons I sometimes choose to travel alone. And I move on.

The recurring thought returns: where will I sleep tonight? I check the map, looking for a potential campsite. I scan the surroundings, but nothing feels right: too noisy, too sloped, too uneven, too close to the road. I check the Park4Night app and see a few picnic areas along the way, so when I find the first one, I decide to stop.

Before pitching the tent, I always try to tune into how I feel, what sensations I notice, and in the meantime, I prepare dinner. There are other campers and vans. It’s certainly not a spectacular spot, but it seems like a quiet area. I pitch the tent and close another day.

Day 7 – From Borgund to Ullsåk | 72 km – 1,100 m elevation gain 

While I’m traveling through Norway, the MotherNorth ultracycling event is taking place — the very race that inspired much of my route and road choices. It’s organized by Bruno, an Italian friend, and I know a few of the riders taking part: there’s Guido, a guy from Milan, and Pierfrancesco, whom I met on one of my bike trips in the Alps. Then there’s the legendary Tatiana, whom I got to know during the Komoot Women Rally in Badlands.

It’s amazing how cycling brings people together. We only spent a short time together, yet it feels like we’ve known each other for years. I pass one of the official checkpoints — a stavkirke, a traditional wooden church with dark timber and a truly captivating structure. There’s something mystical about it.

Then comes the big climb of the day. The scenery at first isn’t particularly moving, but the thought of seeing familiar faces along the way makes it all feel more exciting. The first person I meet is Guido. He’s full of enthusiasm, clearly enchanted by this land, though visibly tired. We take photos of each other before he heads off — he still has a long way to go! Next, I cross paths with Pierfrancesco — always cheerful and upbeat. Just time for a quick selfie and an Instagram story, then we each ride on. Only Tatiana is missing. We exchange a few messages and agree to meet the next day. She’s the one who suggests a detour that will turn out to be a highlight of the trip: the Milky Way (Mjølkevegen).

I continue on, first getting a bit lost on a rough trail where I have to push the bike up and down steep sections — hard work! Eventually, I make it back to the paved road, where I find myself stunned by the sight of gorgeous green roofs, blending beautifully into the landscape. I decided to spend the night at a campsite. And with a bit of luck, they offer me a small cabin for the same price as a tent spot — just 15 euros. I feel so lucky.

Day 8 – From Ullsåk to Ryfoss | 63 km – 800 m elevation gain

Following Tatiana’s advice, I decide to tweak my route—I want to give myself one last highlight before heading back to Oslo. So I make a small detour to ride at least a section of the Milky Way (Mjølkevegen).

The landscapes already look promising!

Tatiana and I meet right in the middle of a single track through the forest. It’s incredible—just a few months ago we had met in the deep south of Andalusia, and now here we are, reunited in the north 🙂. And again, with her, it feels like we’ve never really lost touch.

After our encounter, I face several more kilometers of rough, uneven trail. I have to push the bike at times, my feet sinking into the mud. As usual, I try to manage the anxiety that isolated places can bring me. Eventually, I reach a wider track that leads to a small village. I stop at a supermarket to grab something to eat, and the rain starts. I take shelter in one of those picnic areas with tables—my saviors once again! I eat, check the route, and do a bit of sketching. Long live these little rest spots!

Day 9 – The Milky Way | From Ryfoss to Leira | 78 km – 1,300 m elevation gain 

Time to ride the Milky Way, the last big highlight of this journey. The weather isn’t great: it’s cold, overcast, and the climb ahead looks pretty serious. But as I always tell myself: break down what scares you into small, manageable pieces. And remember—you can always turn back.

I start pedaling and reach a small information center, where the climb toward the Mjølkevegen begins. I take a short break and then continue. After all, climbs are what I love the most. It’s where, pedal after pedal, I find my rhythm again. And it’s also how I manage to stay warm!

As I get closer to the top, I begin to feel the wind and cold more intensely. I stop to layer up and put on my gloves. Then suddenly—I see a group of reindeer. They’re running together, like a family, crossing the road right in front of me. I just stand there in awe. It feels like I’m in a National Geographic documentary. The cold, the fatigue, the fears—they all vanish. I silently thank Norway again for this breathtaking moment.

I get back on the bike, and finally reach the summit. In front of me: a stunning view of rugged, snow-dusted peaks wrapped in mist, appearing and disappearing behind the clouds, and a valley that ends in a quiet lake.

I meet two women, probably in their sixties, riding e-bikes. They’re Norwegian and so full of energy. I’d love to imagine myself like that in the future 🙂. We chat a bit, I ask them where they’re coming from, what’s waiting for me on the other side, and they take a photo of me.

I start the descent—and it’s so beautiful I wish it would never end. It’s summer, yet the colors feel like the beginning of autumn. I stop for a few more photos, then reluctantly leave the landscape behind. It’s cold, very cloudy, and rain is on the way again. I look for a campsite for the night—hopefully dry. I need to recharge for the final day of this adventure!

Day 10 – From Leira to Lake Buvatnet | 57 km – 990 m elevation gain

It’s the final day of the trip, the last leg of the journey. The weather looks promising, and I want to end on a high note. I tell myself that I can’t leave Norway without experiencing a proper night of wild camping. I want to find a special spot, one that’s on my way back and where I can also feel safe.

After browsing various camping spot apps, I find one that seems perfect, so I adjust my route to reach it. I also make sure it’s close to a train line for the next day, so I can easily get back to Oslo. I have no idea what it’ll be like, but I want to be prepared. I pick up some supplies for dinner and set off on my bike. The road isn’t particularly remarkable, but I don’t yet know that this will turn out to be the most beautiful wild camping spot I’ve ever had.

I enter a dirt track, with several ups and downs, until I reach a large lake. I take a break to assess the area, but I’m not convinced yet, so I continue on. Another lake opens up ahead, and I try to find a path closer to the shore where I could set up my tent. And I find it. A small space with some upside-down boats, a calm mirror-like lake, just me and nature. This is my camp spot.

As always, I wait a bit before pitching my tent, just to see if anyone else will show up. From the lake, I spot two canoes approaching. Wow, no one’s coming from the land, but someone’s coming from the water?! They’re a couple, they wave as they pass, and keep paddling on their way. I smile to myself, realizing how many times I’ve imagined dramatic scenarios in my mind that have no connection to reality (we often create these little movies in our heads, but the reality is always safer than our fears).

The sky starts to turn pink. Norwegian sunsets last forever, and this is the most beautiful one I’ve ever seen. This pink sky reflecting on the water, just for me. I wish it would never end. I grab my sketchbook and begin to paint, soaking in the moment. I prepare my dinner… and almost don’t want to go to bed. I wish this moment could last forever.

Day 11 – From Buvatnet Lake to Nesbyen | 18.9 km – 110 m elevation gain 

I wake up again in front of this lake. It’s so beautiful I don’t want to leave. But my return flight is already booked, and I don’t have time to cycle any further. I’ll take a train back to Oslo, where my Warmshowers host is waiting for me. It’s almost all downhill, so I reach the station quickly. I’m not quite sure how the trains work, so I ask a few people, download an app, and realize the train is fully booked! I decide to wait for it anyway. I’m lucky—when the train arrives, the ticket inspector tells me there’s a free spot for me. I pay for the ticket onboard, park my bike, and sit next to a Dutch girl who tells me she’s about to move to Barcelona. What a coincidence!

After a couple of hours, the train takes me to Oslo. The true end of my journey. They say whoever returns from a trip is never the same person who left. It’s been less than two weeks cycling through parts of Norway, but it feels like so much more. Maybe it’s the contrast of emotions and landscapes, sunshine and rain, effort and awe, tears and beauty that accompanied every pedal stroke.

I feel tired, but also stronger. Lighter. Happier. I did it—I fulfilled another one of my little dreams. I rode through what I can only describe as a small paradise.

As I get off the train and walk into Oslo’s central station, surrounded by a stream of people, a guy stops me and asks, “Where are you coming from?” He tells me he once cycled all the way to Barcelona and that he’s also moving there soon. Yes, the world really is small—and it’s amazing how bikes can connect us to each other so naturally. I smile, step outside, and let the city wrap around me. Without even realising it, a new chapter of my life had already begun.

Discover the full route here

Q&A

What tips would you give to first-time solo female travellers coming to Norway to cycle?
Just do it! Norway offers stunning landscapes, quiet roads, and a welcoming outdoor culture. Be ready for cold, rain, and changing weather—layers are essential. Wild camping is legal and accepted, and there are many shelters. Use common sense and trust your instincts.

Did you have any bad or uncomfortable experiences in Norway?
No negative experiences or strange encounters. At times, I felt a bit lonely since Norwegians can be reserved, but never unsafe. My anxieties were often worse than reality—things usually turn out better than expected. Just prepare for the weather and let the journey unfold.

Is there anything Norway could improve for solo female travellers?
Nothing major—Norway feels very safe and welcoming. The culture of gender equality and wild camping freedom really help. More visibility for women’s outdoor or solo travel groups could help newcomers feel more connected.