{"id":24624,"date":"2024-10-22T09:18:46","date_gmt":"2024-10-22T08:18:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cyclenorway.com\/?p=24624"},"modified":"2024-10-22T09:18:46","modified_gmt":"2024-10-22T08:18:46","slug":"through-peaks-and-plateaus-my-mjolkevegen-ride-rolls-on","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cyclenorway.com\/en\/through-peaks-and-plateaus-my-mjolkevegen-ride-rolls-on\/","title":{"rendered":"Through Peaks and Plateaus: My Mj\u00f8lkevegen Ride Rolls On"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Text and Photos by Gjermund Gustavsen \u2013 Part 2 of 2 (Part 1 here)<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Picking up where yesterday left off, I continue my unpredictable journey along Mj\u00f8lkevegen.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m at the edge of the famous Jotunheimen \u2013 home of giants and trolls \u2013 as I unzip my makeshift cave. The sun greets me warmly, and unlike those mythical creatures, I do not<\/em> turn to stone at first light. Quite the opposite\u2014I\u2019m alive and energized, sprawled in the soft heather while a herd of sheep walks past me. These fuzzy clouds on legs stand out against a sky that\u2019s perfectly clear above.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Mj\u00f8lkevegen<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If physical exercise is the key to good sleep, then I guess last night was something of a proof. Even though the last hill almost broke me, I feel surprisingly refreshed as I fire up the camping stove outside my tent. The hiss of gas blends with the crisp morning air, carrying the promise of fresh coffee and new adventure. Below me, the gravel road twists in both directions, still bearing the imprints of yesterday\u2019s hard-won kilometres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s been months since I last took on a serious ride. The tent was an untested gamble, the weather a roll of the dice, and my preparations anything but ideal. Yet here I am, immersed in the moment, enjoying the hell out of a beautiful morning. But the journey is only halfway done, and now it\u2019s go time. Again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tourist hub<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Riding through the hilly farmland, my bike and I are the only signs of modern life in what could easily pass for an 1800s landscape. My legs are holding up better than expected, and I\u2019m confident my stiff neck will loosen up soon. A series of potholes is the final jolt needed to wake me fully, and the elevation meters remind me that, even though it\u2019s Sunday, I\u2019m now very much at work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I thought Beitost\u00f8len was just around the corner, but it takes a solid 40 minutes of climbing and coasting before I finally roll in. The vibe shifts noticeably, and suddenly it\u2019s all \u201ctourist hub meets chic alpine resort,\u201d with sports cars in the parking lots and people strolling around in patagucci<\/em> vests. It snaps me out of my adventure mindset, and I quickly decide this isn\u2019t a place I\u2019ll linger for long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I pop into the Sunday-open grocery store for a few essentials. On my way out, I walk straight into a group of cyclists deep in conversation about the trail conditions ahead. The word \u201cmarble\u201d comes up when describing the gravel, and even though they\u2019ve just ridden it, they seem almost envious that I\u2019ll be experiencing it for the first time. Their excitement fuels my own, and I\u2019m eager to get moving again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The asphalt road ahead slopes upward, as expected, but it\u2019s a stunning climb, with the dramatic Bitihorn towering above me, almost as if it\u2019s pointing in the opposite direction\u2014toward endless miles of grand mountain views.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"bitihorn\"<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As I\u2019m about to pass Bygdin Hotel, I figure this place deserves a stop. Compared to the lodge of yesterday, it\u2019s a bit of an upgrade. It checks all the boxes of a classic Norwegian \u201ch\u00f8yfjellshotell,\u201d and the interior feels like a scene from a movie\u2014just not a recent one. Even the cell phone reception seem to be from the old days, but who cares. I\u2019m ordering waffles, and they\u2019re a pleasant surprise: a far cry from yesterday\u2019s microwaved pancakes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019m just over two hours in, but this Sunday already feels pretty complete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The wrong turn<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019ve entered the national scenic route of Valdresflye\u2014a long, straight hill leading up into the mountains, with open highlands stretching out on either side. Tall tree sticks line the road every two meters, ready to guide winter drivers through the blinding snow that will blanket this place in just a few months. I can\u2019t help but imagine how drastically different it will look, buried under snow and ice. For now, though, I\u2019m fortunate to have clear skies and good weather. As I approach the climb, I settle into a steady rhythm\u2014maybe too steady, because by the time I reach the caf\u00e9 at the summit, I realize I\u2019ve missed my turn and climbed the wrong mountain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mj\u00f8lkevegen<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s one of those inevitable cycling mishaps, and I know I need to shake it off and get back on the bike before my thoughts spiral. The silver lining? The caf\u00e9 is actually a pretty nice spot\u2014one I\u2019d even bookmarked on Google Maps as a place to visit. So, in a way, it feels like a happy accident, though maybe that\u2019s just me trying to justify the whole thing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Back on the right course, I cruise down the hill and leave the asphalt behind before hitting a century-old gravel road that hugs a lake, rolling up and down through the undulating terrain. The gentle elevation changes feel manageable, and the kilometers fly by\u2014until the road pitches up again, leading to a new summit covered in what must be the loosest gravel in the northern hemisphere. It\u2019s nearly impossible to get solid traction, so I steer for the narrow strip between the gravel and the ditch, which proves handy when a truck suddenly appears behind me. A reminder that sketchy situations can pop up when you least expect them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"mj\u00f8lkevegen<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s been a lonely ride today as well, so when I meet couple who are approaching their 80s, I stop and chat. The woman beams with pride when I compliment her lack of electric help.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Onwards<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As I crest the new mountaintop and leave the lake behind, the landscape shifts once more, unfolding into a classic Norwegian vidde<\/em>\u2014a vast, open plateau that is the next chapter in the story of Mj\u00f8lkevegen. The ever-changing scenery keeps me engaged, each transition a kind of plot twist. All welcome distractions, making me forget just how many hours I\u2019ve been grinding away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Reindeer<\/div>

The crunch of gravel sets the rhythm, with a tune quietly humming in the back of my mind. Then, out of nowhere, a few reindeer join the scene, gracefully moving across the road before disappearing back into the fields. As far as settings for an impromptu music video go, this one\u2019s hard to beat. How could everyday worries possibly find room here?

I press pause when I see a tourist information hut in the middle of nowhere, with a surprisingly nice toilet. Thankfully, I don\u2019t need it, as my stomach have managed to stay just on the right side of trouble.

In areas like this, you feel a big descent in two ways: the speed picks up, and the landscape shifts. For now, the trees grow taller and thicker, and soon I\u2019m surrounded by dense forest next to a nice lake. The rough ground rattles my gear, sharpening my focus.

It\u2019s around 4 p.m., and hunger starts to gnaw at me. I\u2019ve dulled my appetite with candy and trail mix, but the real problem is water. I finished my bottles on the last climb and haven\u2019t found a refill since. When I finally hear a creek, I bushwhack through the trees to my savior. A small step for mankind, but a giant leap for me on this adventure.
<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Mj\u00f8lkevegen<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nearing the end<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In moments of fatigue, I start to wonder if my decision to go solo without studying the route is catching up with me. It would be nice to have someone to chat with, draft behind, or simply know where the next meal is. But the landscape keeps me engaged, and I cling to the promise of a big descent into Vinstra\u2014though it feels like it\u2019s always just<\/em> out of reach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Entering the Peer Gynt Road, the climb is brutal, with gradients hitting 19%. I know I\u2019m nearing the end, but I avoid checking the exact distance to stay in the moment. At this point, the route feels like it\u2019s playing tricks on me. I think I should be descending by now, but new hills keep appearing, pushing my already strained mind.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mj\u00f8lkevegen<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Finally, the road tilts downward, and the last 10 kilometers fly by in a blur, taking less than 15 minutes. Exhausted and starving, I roll into Vinstra and head straight to the local pizza place to plan my way home. Just then, I spot a train arriving in minutes. It\u2019s fully booked, and I can\u2019t buy a ticket online, but I decide to chance it and sneak on board. What\u2019s the worst that could happen?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Luckily, the conductor just charges me for a ticket, and that\u2019s that. I grab two hot dogs and a beer, then settle into the kids’ playroom for the ride back, reflecting on a weekend that will take some time to digest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mj\u00f8lkevegen<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For more information about Mj\u00f8lkevegen and surrounding routes, see our National Cycle Route 5 page<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Text and Photos by Gjermund Gustavsen \u2013 Part 2 of 2 (Part 1 here) Picking up where yesterday left off, I continue my unpredictable journey along Mj\u00f8lkevegen. I\u2019m at the edge of the famous Jotunheimen \u2013 home of giants and trolls \u2013 as I unzip my makeshift cave. The sun greets me warmly, and unlike […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":24626,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[44,19,36,45],"class_list":["post-24624","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-articles","tag-bikepacking","tag-featured","tag-gravel","tag-mjolkevegen"],"acf":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"aioseo_head":"\n\t\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t